RE: Mixing Tires
The bottom line here is a $500.00 decision. Not to be dramatic, but I have to ask you how much is safety worth?
I don't mix tires on my cars. Tires marked as the same size from different manufacturers is not a guarantee they are the same size.
The best suggestion is to use the off-brand tire as a spare - IF you have a spare wheel and are able to change it yourself or stow it so it can be mounted/changed by a service. My 22.5 tires are beyond by capability and I don't have a torque multiplier to get the 450 lbs. feet required to mount a spare tire/wheel properly.
Road services used by Truckers have that capability.
RE: Exhaust brake conundrum
Lloyd,
I can only speak to what my system does and how I addressed it. However, I'd be surprised if your system is much different.
My answers (in blue) as the questions were asked:
1.Would I wire this light in series with the lead from the ECU? No. It must be wired in parallel.
2.If I clamp a test light onto that lead from the ECU (assuming the ECU is not the problem) will I not have to ground the test light in order for it to light up when the current from the ECU is detected? Yes. You will have to ground it.
3.Likewise, with the test light clamped onto the lead from the relay to the solenoid does the test light need to be grounded or hooked up in series? It must be connected in parallel and be grounded.
4. Logic tells me to first test to see if there is a detectable signal from the ECU. Is this correct? Using a test light as described will tell you that.
5. In light of your expression of caution about feeding 12V to the relay mean that the current delivered from the ECU to the relay is much less than 12 volts? If so will it even light a 12V test lamp? Not necessarily. It only tells you to not reverse the current in a circuit.
5. Will the signal current from the ECU to the relay be sustained or momentary and if momentary only will it be on long enough to light a 12 V test light? The ECU output will last as long as you keep the exhaust brake engaged. Up to the point the ECU is programmed to cut out (mine does so at about 1,000 RPM).
Another observation: Are you absolutely certain the dash switch completes the ground of the circuit? My system does not do that.
RE: 7 thousand dollar brake repair. Be careful when you buy.
Another useful tool is to inform the Dealer you use these forums. Many of them know that a factual posting about shady practices will cost them a lot more than $7,000.00.
While good will is a marketable commodity, bad will is priceless.
Sometimes forum familarity can be like showing anger. Both can be useful tools if used judiciously.
RE: 7 thousand dollar brake repair. Be careful when you buy.
If you know the ropes going into it, you can get around the As-is, where-is statement. Even if there is a sticker stating that.
If you ask a question and the Dealer gives you an incorrect answer or misrepresents a product, he has expressly put himself in a liability situation.
If you tell a Dealer what your requirements are and he makes a recommendation, that is an express warranty. The vehicle MUST be suitable for the intended purpose if the Dealer states it is.
Generally, a court will look at a Dealer as expert in the field, or at least more knowledgable than the Buyer. That is the Dealer's business and, a such, certain actions are incumbent upon him.
Usually, in a Court of Equity, he who can afford to pay, pays and the chips will fall on the side of a duped customer.
If, on the other hand, a Buyer simply walks into a Dealership and tells the Dealer he/she would like to buy a specific unwarranted product, the Dealer is under no obligation and an As-is, where-is condition prevails.
Most states consider representation as a spoken contract, depending on what the crux of the matter is.
Uniform Commercial Code 101.
I am not an Attorney but have been around a long time, applying the above with much success. This reasoning is what makes me very hesitant to buy a high-dollar item from a private party.
Despite the "Usually", "Generally" and "If" statements above, it's worked for me.
Don't let this go without thoroughly researching your options. There may be a more pleasant ending.
RE: When do you need trailer/toad brakes?
The Laws that apply are the Laws of Physics.
Not even "know-it-all" Lawmakers have figured out how to outdo them.
RE: turbo booster problem
There are a few reasons for inadequate boost, 3 being:
1. Turbocharger (cold side) impellers have been known to erode when an air filter has not been properly used and/or maintained.
2. If the "Waste-gate" is malfunctioning, sticking open or needing repair, the exhaust gasses bypass the impeller directly to the exhaust pipe.
3. The CAC (Charge air cooler), formerly the Intercooler, may not be leaking, which will allow the compressed air to escape before it is directed to the intake manifold. In this case, you should hear a high-pitched whistle near or at the CAC.
If 1 of these, hope it's the Waste-gate problem. They are relatively easy and inexpensively repaired. I'd look there 1st.
RE: Exhaust brake conundrum
I second wolfe10's comment: you DON'T want to backfeed anything to the controller(s).
Try this:
Run a wire from the rear to a temporary 12 VDC light in the front. Ground the other side of the light.
Connect the end of the rear lead to the input side of the relay. If, when driving, the light in the front does not go on when you call for Pac Brake, the problem is upstream of the relay. If it does and the Pac Brake does not come on, it's a good bet the relay is bad. It could be something as simple as a burned-out coil on the relay's actuator.
If you don't want to go to that trouble, replace the relay. All Electronics (allelectronics.com) has relays and sockets for under $5.00. If you're lucky, you might find an exact replacement.
As a side note, the input (hot side) to my Pac Brake solenoid is the yellow wire; the other (purple?) being Ground. If you are going to test the solenoid valve by running 12 VDC directly to it, you'd best split the connector before doing so to eliminate the possibility of putting 12VDC into the control unit backwards. They are expensive.............
RE: RVing is cheaper than car & motel, cost calculation
mdprince,
"If someone decides to have a wedding in their backyard to save $$ (and because they have a nice yard) they don't factor in what it cost to buy the house".
Now that is about the most sage comment I've heard in a long time.
Exactly so.
Site problems?
Is this site having an inordinate amount of problems?
My connection doesn't have difficulties with any of the other sites I frequent, only this one. Almost as many times as not, I cannot get a link to this site.
Anybody?
RE: RVing is cheaper than car & motel, cost calculation
This 'discussion' is endless.
We like to travel a lot, which is costly by any method.
We also like convenience, which is costly.
We also like to have fun, which is costly.
Any way you cut it, generally speaking, whatever any of us wish to do other than just survive will cost more.
There are 3 things in life; Gottas, Wannas and Nicetas. Some things we gotta have, some are things we wanna have and then come the things that are niceta have. Costs associated with each escalate in direct proportion.
I gauge everything by what I call the "Giggle factor". How many dollars am I willing to pay per giggle?
In the past it was bigger boats. Now it's the Alpine, which is more economical than a boat.
I'm guess I'm getting more frugal in my dotage.
Bottom line:
Trying to justify any not absolutely required high-dollar item is a fool's game. And I am well-practiced, expert and, some say, over-qualified for that activity.
I'll just roll on down the road paying the high fuel costs, staying in interesting places and seeing this wonderful country of ours. All the while smiling.
And, an added bonus: if I don't like my neighbor (or his yapping dog), I can raise hell about it and then simply move my house.
RE: Replace Pacbrake
Pac Brake sells the clamps, which I bought with the PRXB upgrade. I purchased my upgrade kit form Liberator Performance in Carlisle, PA, who were recommended by Pac Brake (call Shawn at 1-717-249-4001). They gave me a bit of a discount and my final delivered cost, with new clamps, was $720.00. Good folks, they are.
I will be happy to share the schematics. Are you able to open an AutoCad file? If not, I can do a cut & paste in Word format. Not too sure how well the details will show up though.
RE: Replace Pacbrake
I just installed a PRXB upgrade on my Cummins 330ISC. Overall, it took about an hour; the hardest part being removal of the OEM Pac Brake. A little tapping and banging on the clamps may be required to loosen them and I recommend you also buy new clamps in case you break one.
You'll also want to sand the mating surfaces of the turbo and head-pipe to make sure the new unit will seat properly.
Use a torque wrench when installing the PRXB!
In addition, as my Pac Brake/downshift system did not illuminate the brake lights when energized, I installed a pressure switch in the pneumatic circuit between the solenoid and Pac Brake actuating cylinder that causes the brake lights to illuminate when the Pac Brake control solenoid opens.
I also installed circuitry that allows me to
1. immediately engage the Pac Brake system independent of the downshift mode,
2. keep the Pac Brake engaged until I manually release the momentary override switch at the Driver's position,
3. keep the Pac Brake engaged after the Allison VIM (Vehicle Interface Module) currently releases it.
4. use the Pac Brake at higher speeds without interfering with the VIM signals.
Finally, I installed a momentary switch near the Pac Brake so I can exercise it independently when I lube it with the Pac Brake Hi-temp grease.
It lives! It lives!
RE: Plastic coolant reservoir tank leaks
A simple look-see will tell you if it's pressurized. If it has a regular twist-off metal radiator cap on it, it's pressurized (usually 12 to 14 PSI). If it has a snap-on plastic cap on it, it's not pressurized.
Also, if it's a plastic tank, it's probably a blow-molded HDPE (High Density Polyethylene). If so, it's not rapairable to any degree of success. And, I do not know of any plastic tank capable of containing more than 1 or 2 PSI unless it's a yard thick.
Fortunately, my Cummins tank is made of welded 12 gage steel.
RE: Replacing rear radiator in CT. Any repair shop suggestions?
We had a problem and stopped at Freightliner of Maine in Bangor. They were very nice, got us in in 15 minutes, fixed the problem and charged us just over $100.00 for the parts and 2 hours of work.
It wasn't anywhere near as big a job as a radiator replacement (computer diagnosis, 2 filters and time) but if in NE, I'd give them a call before I did anything else.
RE: Will the Ford Edge become a commonly towed vehicle ("toad")?
I also tow a Ford Edge with Blue Ox gear and find it to be an excellent all-round car. I often have to look in the rear-vision monitor to make sure it's still there. My fuel mileage hasn't noticably suffered either.
If you're going to have any tow-gear installed, buy it at a place that does factory authorized installations.
